Mathieu Mirano SS14

Fashion wunderkind Mathieu Mirano has been gaining momentum ever since Lady Gaga featured his creations in her music video for “Applause.” Fittingly, the same kind of otherworldly beauty was on display at his Spring/Summer 2014 presentation. With a keen eye for texturized fabrics, his collection explored metallic, lace and sheer detailing in curve-conscious jackets, dresses and skirts.

Despite the futuristic ambiance created by statue-like models that lined the length of the room, the collection on the whole was surprisingly soft and youthful. In one look, cream-colored roses peered out from a nude-colored bodice, while golden strips hugged at the waist. In another, a pair of tailored cigar pants covered in white lace peeped out from underneath a strapless geometric top.

With gelled ponytails and black or nude stilettos, there was no doubt that the collection’s aesthetic was sleek. However, Mirano’s microscopic attention to detail serves as a reminder that sleek does not necessarily preclude feminine and fresh.

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Concept Korea SS14

If The Breakfast Club were a runway show, the result would be Concept Korea Spring/Summer 2014. Featuring four design labels—Kaal E.Suktae, Choiboko, Beyond Closet and Big Park—the show was a motley crew of differing identities, assembled together in a show that was equal parts futuristic, punk, jock and artsy.

Unlike most New York Fashion Week shows that feature the seasonal designs of single labels, Concept Korea showcased four different designers referred to collectively as “Main Concept Korea.” Also part of the Concept Korea empire are three “Pre Concept Korea” labels Kye, Kimseoryong and Cres.E Dim. In joining these seven labels together, Concept Korea aims to create a global fashion project in which the Korean government can provide support, publicize Korean fashion culture and bring Korean design to the global market.

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A look from Kaal E.Suktae

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Bespoken SS14

Bespoken is known for its ability to combine the rich antiquity of Savile Row tailoring with an edgy cool factor that distinguishes itself among others. The New York based menswear design collective did not disappoint for its SS14 presentation. Simpler looks were accented with pieces like military shorts and cropped sweatshirts to push the boundaries of style without straying too far away from the conservative realm. The male models at the event were styled for a polished yet rough look, emphasizing texture.

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Photographers prepping before the Bespoken presentation

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Nautica SS14 Backstage and Runway

Black Sail by Nautica Spring/Summer 2014 menswear was inspired by the modern waterman, integrating form, purpose and function. The collection displayed various tonal color blocking, asymmetrical piecing and bright colors over a palette of neutral tones. Very much active wear, Black Sail by Nautica is primarily described using the key word “function”. For Spring/Summer 2014, designer Chris Cox showcased easy-to-manage looks, keeping the utilitarian from the previous collection. Cox made sure to include looks suited for each occasion, work and play. The energy shown backstage and on the runway only complemented the collection more.

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John James Todd gets light make up done before the show

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Costello Tagliapietra SS14 Runway & Backstage

Texture was the buzzword at the Costello Tagliapietra Spring/Summer 2014 show. It was styled into the hair, folded into the clothes, and blended into the makeup. It was synonymous with the collection.

Perhaps the most prominent contextualization of texture was seen in the bright colors that popped out of the collection’s many blazers, cardigans and collared blouses. Some color combinations included persimmon orange with sunflower yellow, cyprus green with sky blue, orange-and-blue-plaid with sunshine yellow. These color pairings danced around under the runway’s bright lights, balancing the shiny glean of a shirt collar with the muted hue of the coat covering it.

The makeup worked in a similar way. Chanel and NARS foundations gave skin a dewy canvas on which to dust cheerful, matte shades of yellow-green and lilac eye shadow.

Key accessories included studded cross-body leather bags and thin leather belts. Along with braids texturized with dry shampoo and thickening spray, the collection’s aesthetic of nonchalant elegance was complete.

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Tocca SS14

For this Spring/Summer season, Tocca creative director Emma Fletcher found inspiration in the art of ballet. Soft, sleek, airy, paired with their trademark lace—this collection boasted metallic sequence high-waisted briefs with sheer silk tops and ballerina leotards. Easy transitions to street and evening wear continued the balletic mood with color palettes of lemon yellow, pale blues and dreamy cloud prints. Fletcher combined the elegance of dance and transformed it to the grace and beauty of stylish performance and everyday wear.

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